92-year-old family-owned Mexican restaurant closing forever

For a restaurant to reach 100 years old, it needs to offer more than just good food. It has to appeal to multiple generations, adapting over time, while also changing to meet the times.

My small hometown of Swampscott, Massachusetts, recently lost the iconic Hawthorne by the Sea after 78 years. That eatery had a beautiful oceanfront location and a big parking lot, which isn’t a small thing when rivals relied on street parking. Its longevity, however, was primarily due to its staying true to its brand.

The restaurant, part of a small family-owned chain, served locals of a certain age during the day, offering value at lunch. Come dinner time, especially on weekends, it was a destination restaurant, someplace to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries, graduations, and more.

Over the decades, the menu evolved, but it continued to offer local seafood using traditional recipes.

How a restaurant reaches 100 years

Rick Browne’s book “A Century of Restaurants” chronicles American restaurants that had hit that milestone. He found some similarities between many of the locations he visited.

“Almost all are family restaurants, they’ve been in the family for years and years, that’s a big part for most of them,” Browne told FSR Magazine. “Part of the secret is people come back wanting the same food — as long as it’s good, they don’t want to change anything. Customers like familiarity, they want it to taste the way they remember. They want it to taste like when they were a kid.”

For perspective, it’s important to know that most restaurants don’t last very long.

“About 60% of restaurants fail within the first year, and nearly 80% close before their fifth anniversary. Those that succeed tend to have clear branding, strong management, and adaptable business model,” according to the National Restaurant Association.

Las Cuatro Milpas, a San Diego staple since 1933, won’t quite hit the 100-year mark, as it’s closing its doors soon for reasons the owners can’t control.

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Las Cuatro Milpas nears the end

“Family-run for more than nine decades, Las Cuatro Milpas has long been a beloved institution in San Diego’s Barrio Logan neighborhood — a place where tradition and community came together over a simple but unforgettable menu. Opened in 1933 by Petra and Natividad Estudillo, the humble restaurant quickly gained a loyal following thanks to its comforting plates of tacos and burritos with the best homemade tortillas in town,” San Diego Magazine reported.

The multiple generations of owners have stuck by their recipe and still operate a cash-only business.

Manuela Estudillo, a family member who still works at the restaurant, shared how her family came to own the building that houses the famous restaurant.

“My grandfather worked at the railroad tracks 18 hours a day to pay for the property,” Estudillo told CBS 8.

Her grandparents paid $500 for the property, which the family put up for sale earlier this year.

“County records show the neighboring owner, Light of the World Church, bought both properties for $2.2 million this month,” the news channel reported.

The family has sold its buildings, but it won’t sell the restaurant.

More Restaurants 

It has not been an easy year for the family, as Las Cuatro Milpas faced unpaid taxes and temporary closures due to health code violations, according to CBS 8.

“The longtime Barrio Logan restaurant is now expected to close after the end of service on Christmas Eve, December 24, 2025, according to information provided directly by an employee at the restaurant,” SanDiegoville reported.

Las Cuatro Milpas relied on authentic recipes.

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Las Cuatro Milpas timeline:

  • 1933 – Founding: Las Cuatro Milpas, a family‑run Mexican restaurant, is opened in Barrio Logan by Petra and Natividad Estudillo. It grows into a beloved San Diego culinary institution known for its authentic homemade tortillas, tacos, beans, and slow‑cooked chorizo, according to San Diego Magazine.
  • 2022 – Temporary Health Closure: The restaurant was temporarily closed for health violations early in 2022, according to county health records, but subsequently passed inspections, reported NBC 7 San Diego.
  • December 30, 2024 – Routine Inspection Closure: A routine San Diego County health inspection uncovers significant violations, including a major vermin problem, plumbing issues, and unsanitary conditions, prompting an ordered temporary closure, according to SanDiegoville.
  • January 10, 2025 – Re‑Inspection Fails: A follow‑up inspection finds continuing vermin, plumbing, and other compliance issues, resulting in the restaurant remaining closed while issues are addressed, added SanDiegoville.
  • January 17-20, 2025 – Reopens After Remediation: After addressing the violations, health officials grant the restaurant a high inspection score (98/100), allowing Las Cuatro Milpas to reopen for business, according to Hoodline.
  • July 2025 – Tax Debt and Threat of Sale Reported: Reports circulate that the restaurant could face a government‑mandated sale in March 2026 due to outstanding property tax debt, with back taxes exceeding $60,000 and other tax liens mounting, SanDiegoville reported.
  • October 2025 – Property Sale Confirmed: The real estate holding the restaurant is sold for over $2.2 million, though at the time, owners maintained that the business itself was not yet closed, reported NBC 7 San Diego.
  • Dec. 24, 2025: As shared above, the restaurant will have its last service on Christmas Eve.

How restaurants stand the test of time

A number of restaurant owners shared with Restaurant Hospitality their tips for helping restaurants go the distance.

“Don’t be afraid to work long, long hours,” said Gino Ferraro, owner of Ferraro’s Restaurant in Las Vegas. “After 31 years, I still come to work almost every day. If I wasn’t here all the time, we probably wouldn’t have survived 31 years.” 

Staff also plays a large role in long-term success.

“There’s no way you can have longevity without a great staff; we have people who have been with us for 30-plus years,” said Les Barnes, who took over operations at London Lennie’s in Queens, New York, in 1977 (the restaurant has been in business since 1959). “Treat your staff like family, be concerned about their life outside of work, be understanding of their needs and the needs of the restaurant.”

He also noted that consistency is key.

“We cannot be all things to all people. Every restaurant has its own market to attract. Know your market and give them the food quality and service they deserve,” said Barnes. “Every item on the menu should be prepared the same way, every time. The entire dining room staff must approach the table the same way, and hostesses must answer the phone the same way. No one likes surprises.”

Very few restaurants achieve longevity approaching what Las Cuatro Milpas achieved.

“The average restaurant lifespan is 72.5 months, or just over 6 years,” reported Toast. “We calculated this using BLS data by tracking how long restaurants from a single year stayed open. This method is called a survival-weighted average, and it gives a more accurate picture than simply measuring how many fail in the first year.”

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